Petestack Blog

23 April 2009

Polldubh guides, Wanderlust and Curse

Filed under: Climbing — admin @ 5:10 pm

Yesterday was historically ‘Polldubh Day’ in more ways than one with the arrival of my first edition Klaus Schwartz/Blyth Wright guide, the first regular outdoor meet of the Polldubh Club and some 50th anniversary ascents of Ian Clough’s Wanderlust.

Now, I already had several Polldubh guides including the 1978 revised Schwartz and 1985 Grindley versions (both of which I’ve been using since times when no later guides were available!), but a chance stumble over a clean-sounding copy of the 1970 Schwartz/Wright original (first published guide to the Crags) at Cotswold Internet Books while Googling some related string or other was simply too good to miss. So I ordered it on the spot, received it in absolutely pristine condition yesterday (surely a propitious omen with the Polldubh Club meet and anniversary ascents in mind?) and have to say it’s fascinating. Might add that it’s not the first time I’ve seen a copy (Noel Williams has one), but I’d forgotten how different it was to its superficially similar successor with nothing listed at above VS (ah, the famous ‘Scottish VS’!), numerous choice historical observations and tidbits lurking in the descriptions, and a charm all of its own.

And so to the meet, where we were lucky enough to get a fine evening’s climbing after two days of less settled weather than we’ve been enjoying recently. So it’s pleasing to report that we got a substantial contingent up to Scimitar Buttress and Wanderlust (V Diff) got several ascents including solos (presumably in keeping with Clough’s FA since only his name is listed?) from Chuck and me and a roped one from Graham and Andy. Don’t know if anyone else did it after that because Rich, Chuck, Jamie and I headed over to Styx Buttress, but a potentially interesting situation appeared to be developing with Ed on Razor (VS), Mark on Diagonal (VS) and Graham on Wanderlust all converging on the same few square feet of crag…

As for the Styx team, it was also VS night on this great VS crag, with Rich and Chuck doing Resurrection (leaving Broos because it was wet) and Fidelity, and me doing Curse (surprisingly good route with some interesting moves taking a kind of hanging gangway/slab thing through the overhangs) with Jamie. And we’d certainly both give that the star it doesn’t get, but that’s all I’ve got time to say right now because the calf‘s feeling a little better and it’s running time tonight!


  1. Hi Pete,
    Glad to see you’re still being you and doing all sorts of odd, out-doorsy things up there!
    I hope your music is not being affected by your torn calf; perhaps you could use that as an opportunity to take a rest from physical stuff and do some practice….tee hee!
    Jac in NZ. :)

    Comment by Jac Field — 26 April 2009 @ 9:18 am

  2. Hi Jac, and good to hear from you!

    Calf seems OK now (felt more like some kind of cramp thing than a tear), so hopefully not too much need for rest when action is preferred…

    Comment by admin — 26 April 2009 @ 9:41 am

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