Petestack Blog

1 January 2011

Ne’erday refreeze

Filed under: Running — admin @ 10:08 pm

Thought I was going to write an interesting post here combining a report of today’s testing run in much crisper conditions than Thursday’s soggy snow with some updates to my year-old running crampon review. But now (still sitting here after multiple false starts) I’ve decided just to settle for a brief note that I ran Binnein Mor and Na Gruagaichean, leaving the zigzag path up Sgor Eilde Beag to cut (literally!) straight up its south ridge snowfield (where I might not have been comfortable in trail shoes and MICROspikes without that nice series of slash steps) and taking a strangely snaking route along the south ridge of Binnein Mor as the cornice swapped sides from east to west and back again. And that’s basically that, with the detailed discussion of lightweight, flexible crampon design and my thoughts on the pros and cons of the potentially more capable Kahtoola and Hillsound models I’d like to test (subject to UK distribution or private import for the Hillsounds?) held over for another time.

30 December 2010

Soggy steps on familiar hills

Filed under: Running — admin @ 9:14 pm

Keen to get out for some good hill days on ‘new’ ground with February’s WML Assessment looming, but lack of excitement about current thaw conditions saw me settling for a wee run over the very familiar peaks of Am Bodach and Stob Coire a’ Chairn this afternoon. Not much snow left below about 800m and even what’s still ‘covering’ the ridge mostly soft and soggy, but found some steeper/firmer patches to cut some slash steps and pigeon-holes (quite reassuring in places with ‘running’ footwear) and thought the steep NE descent of Am Bodach testing enough for trail shoes and MICROspikes in its current shape. No idea why there’s an arrow planted in the cairn of Stob Coire a’ Chairn (seems about as logical as the Sgurr Alasdair squirrel!), but left it as I found it and ran on down, finding the snow lining the Coire na Ba path just the right depth to keep trapping and tripping a runner’s lower legs. So pretty crap conditions really for hill running or practising axe work, but still good exercise and hoping the forecast refreeze means some better snow up there for some big boot work soon.

12 December 2010

Back for Meall Greigh

Filed under: Running — admin @ 9:53 pm

Despite waking up late enough today (on a stunning frosty morning) to consider just going for a local run, it didn’t take long to start thinking sod-that-and-get-going-because-there’s-long-enough-to-settle-that-unfinished-business-with-Meall-Greigh and head off Loch Tay way for a hit-and-run on said hill. So that’s what I did…

Nice to be able to drive straight over Ba Bridge for the first time in ages, then loads of roadside snow from Crianlarich (they must have been buried!) onwards, with cars parked at the foot of the wee hill road from Loch Tay to Bridge of Balgie and even the few metres I could see of that in passing looking like an icy non-starter. A largely snow-free ascent of Meall Greigh’s south ridge, quick confirmation (as if I needed it!) in perfect visibility that I’d all but topped out before, nice run off towards the Lawers Burn on crisp snow down to about 700m and I was back at the van a couple of hours after setting out. Oh yes, and Sealskinz waterproof socks don’t seem to be waterproof although they do still wick away moisture pretty well when wet.

Not perhaps the most complete or memorable of hill days, but still satisfying for healing a festering sore! :-)

6 December 2010

First route of the season…

Filed under: Climbing — admin @ 5:55 pm

And (despite others having been out with the axes and crampons for weeks now) it’s early for me! Yesterday I climbed the splendid Raeburn’s Route (IV,4) on Stob Coire nan Lochan with Johnny MacLeod, thus completing the classic trilogy of the venue (the others being Twisting Gully and SC Gully, which I did in January and February this year). But, although Raeburn’s was possibly harder and certainly more sustained than we expected (NB it’s easily the hardest of the three), our day out doesn’t begin to compare with the fantastic effort of Donald King and Andy Nelson in completing the neighbouring Satyr at a giddy IX,9…

The crag was in great condition despite a fair covering of the kind of soft snow that just doesn’t take axe picks, and there were other teams enjoying a variety of routes including Crest Route, Twisting Gully and Dorsal Arete. Stunning (clear, snowy, sunny) prospects of the surrounding hills, too, although both the road and the pitched stone path to get there were compromised by an evil icy glaze after Saturday evening thaw and harsh overnight refreeze. Then heavy snow last night, with the Kinlochleven schools closed (first snow closure of the season here) and a thought-provoking half-hour drive to Glencoe Primary (normally possible in about 10 minutes) this morning!

28 November 2010

Hidden gem of the other Garbh Bheinn

Filed under: Climbing,Running — admin @ 6:56 pm

Talk about Garbh Bheinn in this area and most climbers will think of the great Ardgour rock peak despite there being another fine Corbett of that name sitting right above the village and blocking out the light! And that’s where I ran this afternoon after (wisely, from the reports coming in of folk getting stuck left, right and centre) shelving plans to go hill running elsewhere.

Took the ENE ridge (an option I can’t recall taking before) from the Penstock track, with a light covering of soft snow intermittently giving way to crustier slab and deeper driftlets and the bitter wind enough to send me scurrying down Coire an t-Sionnaich without stopping long on top. And here I took the chance to take a good look at the upper reaches of the Allt Coire an t-Sionnaich (scene of January’s true roadside ice episode), noting further climbing potential with two more major icefalls above the ‘cauldron’ and being horrified by the appearance of my right-wall ‘escape’ from this (really not soloing ground at all)! So there might be some long stretches of avoidable easy ground between the good little roadside pitches and the three bigger falls higher up (sitting in the 400/500m area and already more-or-less formed if not yet solidly enough for climbing) but, when it all freezes up, these are going to stretch an interesting little expedition (where else can you start your ice climbing from under the road?) into something rather more substantial with the best bits (thinking rope, screws and partner here!) at the top.

14 November 2010

Carn Mairg group

Filed under: Running — admin @ 10:31 pm

Happy to get the whole, wintry Carn Mairg group after another late-morning start from Glen Lyon (didn’t even pack my stuff till after the start of the S2S Ultra from Kinloch to Tyndrum), but might still admit to having been lured back by a fine MWIS forecast with notions of maybe (just maybe) finishing off Meall Greigh as well. However, that was never really on the agenda with cloudier/windier than expected conditions conspiring with the continuous snow cover (from about 700m) to convince me fairly quickly that this clockwise Carn Mairg circuit would be ample if I didn’t freeze before completing it!

Nothing much more to say here when I want to get the blog post done tonight, but might just explain the slight diversions before and (especially) after Meall Liath, where my self-printed (and should-have-been-laminated) A4 map finally disintegrated and I just had to get off the top for some shelter from the biting wind before digging out the full OS sheet (in map case) that I’d fortuitously packed (in my new OMM Adventure Light 20L sack) as backup before continuing on a better course.

cloudier/windier

7 November 2010

Meall Greigh wasnae there!

Filed under: Running — admin @ 10:16 pm

Yes, it rhymes (almost), or at the very least qualifies as assonance as defined in Educating Rita

So this could have been a cheery blog post about seven Munros (five of which were new to me) snatched from a cold and windy November day on my first proper hill run since September’s rib injury, but now it’ll have to be a cheery blog post about six Munros (four of which were new to me) and one ever-so-nearly-Munro (the culprit being Meall Greigh) snatched from a cold and windy November day and all the rest of it!

Now, you might suppose that Irvine Butterfield knew what he was talking about when he described Meall Ghaordaidh as ‘quite the dullest hill in the Southern Highlands’, but Meall Greigh (being a very dull hill requiring a four-mile detour from a logical circuit of the Ben Lawers range) is possibly even duller. Especially when you miss the top and now have to go back for this hill-of-the-kind-you-swear-you’ll-only-do-once another time!

So what happened? Well, nothing that struck me as wrong at the time… it was very cold and windy and I couldn’t see more than a few metres, but the ground was dropping beyond the ‘summit’ and the altimeter said 1003 where the map said 1001 so I turned and legged it back to Glen Lyon. Then I got home, thought I’d remind myself what Butterfield and the SMC Munros guide had to say about these hills and discovered that Meall Greigh has two summit pimples separated by 200m of flat ground, with the single ring contour denoting the NW imposter neatly hidden by the ‘a’ of the hill name on the 1:50,000 map (silly, that). Knew instantly because of the way they described it that I’d goofed, so wasn’t at all surprised when importing my Forerunner track to Memory-Map confirmed the bad news and just ever so slightly took the shine off a satisfying round!

18 October 2010

Undercover Fly

Filed under: Sailing — admin @ 3:06 pm

Not exactly rapid progress with so much else going on but, three weeks after building the tarpaulin frame for Fly, the decks are 95% clean (approx. six hours of hard scrubbing to test my ‘recovered’ ribs yesterday) and the cover fitted (another cold, wet job today). Have to say I’ve got mixed feelings about this particular tarpaulin (chosen for its combination of 5m x 4m size, decent weight and transparency) since it turned out to have reinforced strips rather than eyelets for the tie-down points and a couple of the holes I put through these have torn/distorted noticeably on first use. So naturally hoping it’ll last the winter without constant attention, but half expecting trouble with the next strong winds! :-/

16 October 2010

Tour of Tractorland

Filed under: Climbing,Cycling — admin @ 2:10 pm

Just back from a wee trip east with Jamie B, with some contrasting climbing at Dunkeld and Ley Quarry sandwiching an ascent of eastmost Munro Mount Keen…

Stopped off at Polney Crag on Thursday to climb Kestrel Crack (Severe), Consolation Corner (V Diff), an approximation to Beech Wall (HS) compromised by wet streaks (the top corner was dripping) and the steeply delightful little gem of Ivy Crack (VS), which I fortunately managed to lead quite nicely under the scrutiny of Graeme Watson and partner, who’d done it just before we got to it.

Next stop Mount Keen, but how to get there when it wasn’t our originally-planned hill day, the 28-year-old map we dug out of my glove compartment neither shows the current main road nor extends far enough north and we were looking for the wrong glen? Try just driving round and round Angus in the dark, marvelling at the number of tractors with trailers on the road (yes, it’s prime farming country) and trying to reconcile the signage with the map till the penny drops and you’re heading up the right glen! After which we dossed for the night before cycling up Glen Mark from the Glen Esk road end, stashing the bikes somewhat prematurely above the Ladder Burn when we started to run into a few gravel traps (turns out we could quite easily have taken them most of the way to the summit) and continuing into the mist and chilly breeze by foot.

Quite a few folk making their way up as we got back to a much busier car park by lunchtime with Jamie determined to squeeze some more climbing out of the journey home. So tried phoning my mate Campbell in Kirriemuir re. a guide to/possible company at the quarry there (too recently developed to make North-East Outcrops?), but decided to skip it when he turned out to be heading home from Yorkshire and thought we’d have to go to Dundee to get one. So off to Ley Quarry instead, eventually finding this hole in the ground (which Jamie seemed to quite like!) after a few more little diversions with many more tractors and stopping to play on the few ‘easy’ routes there. Of which Jamie did three and I did one (twice!), repeating the corner of Cat Scratch Fever and finding its innocuous-sounding F4 (a first outdoor bolt route for this sport-climbing sceptic!) pretty well equivalent to full-on, pumpy VS. But all good things come to an end (or maybe all holes in the ground come to a good end?) and we were back on the road not too much later and home by a pretty reasonable 8:30pm.

13 October 2010

From Ardverikie to Ardnamurchan

Filed under: Climbing — admin @ 3:47 pm

Just had my brother Angus here for the weekend, collecting him from Tyndrum on Saturday and nipping up the Buachaille by Curved/Crowberry Ridges on the way home.

Climbed the great classic Severe (surely not HS?) Ardverikie Wall on Sunday, some 20 years after my only previous ascent. Ran pitches 1 & 2 together (the guidebook pitch 2 is brilliant, taking contorted jugs up a steep rib I still remember after all those years before finishing up a run-out slab), then later 4 & 5 after rejecting the low belay spike and most awkward stance of the route in favour of climbing on with my 60m ropes. Thought the big crack (strangely avoided on the first ascent?) of guidebook pitch 3 excellent, but was surprised how quickly the ‘crux’ of the supposedly stunning pitch 4 gave way to much easier ground and enjoyed my big ‘combo’ pitch all the more for keeping up the interest there. Also don’t know why I took a chalk bag (see first photo) up the route because I never even used it once!

Now, you might deduce from those photos that Sunday’s weather was as good as it gets here for the time of year but, with the wind dropping and the sunny blue sky staying, you’d have run out of superlatives to describe a perfect October Monday’s cragging with six routes/nine pitches in T-shirts in the stunning setting of the Ardnamurchan Ring! Did Oswald (HS), An Toiseach (V Diff), Yir (VS), Crater Comforts (VS), An Deireadh AKA Krakatoa (Diff) + Severe finish and Greta Gabbro (VS), with Angus leading An Toiseach and the first pitch of An Deireadh although I’d also have given him the second pitch of Crater Comforts if I’d known how sub-VS 4c it was. Thought Oswald quite nippy for HS with poor gear just where it’s needed most and the first pitch of Crater Comforts fair at VS for similar reasons, but that second pitch is a romp (low exposure, straightforward gear and more like 4a?) by comparison. To continue this contribution to the great Ardnamurchan grading debate, I’d place the supposedly soft-touch Yir (after my second ascent) squarely at VS 4c (technically more sustained on its main pitch, but comfortably protectable), but agree with those who’ve suggested Greta Gabbro (my third ascent) to be soft at the grade (really just one or two slightly tricky/bold moves, so maybe VS 4b?).

Might just add that (with the smaller Corran ferry running off the temporary pier in daylight hours only) we’d planned from the start to climb all day and drive round Loch Eil for a chippy in the Fort on the way home. So that’s what we did, topping out from Greta Gabbro at c.6:15pm and stopping up the south side of Loch Eil for a few minutes some two-and-a-half to three hours later to gaze at a spectacular starlit sky. Maybe going to get another weekend with Angus before he flies back to the States in a fortnight but, considering it’s October and he just flew over Thursday/Friday with this past one earmarked for climbing weeks back, how jammy is that?

collected Angus from Tyndrum, nipped up the Buachaille by Curved/Crowberry Ridges on the way home and looking forward to some sunny climbing over the next couple of days.

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