Petestack Blog

4 July 2009

Not ‘over protected’ in Glen Gour

Filed under: Climbing — admin @ 11:12 pm

Today (with the forecast suggesting potentially showery weather everywhere with the possible exception of the east) Chuck and I decided to skip the long drive and take our chances with somewhere relatively local. So we headed for the intriguing sounding Indian Slab Crag up Glen Gour on the far side of the Corran Ferry, which promised good multipitch VS slab climbing on clean, rough gneiss with poor protection (‘not over protected’, to quote the usual guidebook euphemism!) and ‘dubious belays’. And that’s exactly what we got…

After a substantial, cleg-ridden walk-in (not more than 7km despite the SMC guide’s 10) in promisingly sunny conditions, we started with the excellent Time Lord (VS 4c, but only just), which we climbed in four long pitches with me leading the first, second and fourth. Followed by the equally good single pitch Sun Dance (allegedly E2 5a, but we think maybe ‘only’ E1 5a!), which Chuck led and four pitch Indian Slab (VS 4b, with everything that grade implies), on which I led the first and last. So, if I tell you that we did nine full pitches of climbing (sometimes struggling to build decent belays within our 60m rope lengths) in fine, dry conditions and were surprised to meet even one other party (who said they were on the three-star Severe Mullennium Direct) all day, perhaps that might tell you something about the climbing. It’s good, very good, being the Etive Slabs with better holds and rougher rock for the lower grade climber, but still quite serious at that given the general lack of protection and poor belays, so no place for those not comfortable at the given grades. A true hidden gem in superb surroundings with a fine view back to the Glen Coe peaks, and well worth the effort for those (like me) who enjoy what it has to offer.

2009-07-04timelord 2009-07-04glengour

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