Petestack Blog

Two contrasting evenings’ ‘climbing’ to report: (more…)

Another fine day with no partner arranged, so I took myself back to the Buachaille and up North Buttress (Mod), which I hadn’t done since soloing it together with Pete Harrop in 1991. With the same huge holds it’s always had and bone dry rock today, it was a joyous romp all the way to the summit, after which a jog down Coire na Tulaich left plenty of time for a late lunch at the Ice Factor (arriving exactly an hour after leaving the top of the Buachaille!) and a whisk round the garden with the mower.

Short of a climbing partner but keen to do something, I took the van to Glen Coe this afternoon and nearly took it straight home again as it started to spit with rain just as I got myself parked. But fortunately I decided that it was still worth a look and set off at a brisk pace for the East Face of Aonach Dubh, where in 1947 the great W.H.Murray had discovered ‘simple and modestly difficult routes [that] all men may climb.’ (more…)

While Wednesday evening looked perfect for Polldubh, it was set to be ruined by negligible breeze to keep the midges at bay. But we didn’t know that when we set out, so Daniel, Kenny Wright, Mark from Florida and I headed up to Secretaries’ Buttress with its open, sunny aspect and a bone dry Twitch (E1) featuring in my thoughts. (more…)

Today I passed my SPA (Single Pitch Award) Assessment at Glenmore Lodge after working at Cummingston (yesterday) and Kingussie (today) in glorious May sunshine that arrived just when most needed. Need to keep this short (and have to be careful about what I say here), but very, very happy to report that my assessor said some nice things at the closing interview and is strongly encouraging me in my ‘medium term’ goal of going for MIA (Mountaineering Instructor Award). :-)

PS Sorry (adding this half an hour later), but I really meant to say thanks to Ice Factor staff (especially Jamie B and Chuck), Al Halewood, David Hooper, Outward Bound Loch Eil and others for help and encouragement along the way.

Today I was up at Polldubh assisting Outward Bound Loch Eil with climbing and abseiling sessions for our own first year pupils from Kinlochleven High School. So the May weather still wasn’t great (alternating sunny spells and heavy showers), but I set up this morning’s abseil and ran the bottom rope for our climbers on SW Buttress, then set up another abseil at the same venue and ran that this afternoon. I was working with Alex and Hannah this morning, and Alan and John this afternoon (hope I’ve spelled everyone’s names right!). All very useful practice with the SPA Assessment now just days away, and a nice chance for the pupils and me to work together outside our normal classroom environment.

Not long after I got home from work this afternoon (and was just starting to think about making use of a fine evening to mow the grass), Daniel rang to ask if I fancied going climbing. So I quickly realised that the grass didn’t really need doing after all and ten minutes later was heading up the road to Polldubh, where we climbed Pandora and Bullet (both Severe). (more…)

So perhaps I regard myself as a solid VS leader these days, but occasionally (currently just twice in eighteen years!) one bites back and last night it was Crybaby… (more…)

Having posted a pre-SPA Assessment appeal on the UKC Forums for work experience opportunities within reasonable travelling distance (quote ‘would certainly consider anywhere in Scotland and possibly northern England’), I was fortunate to get the offer of an interesting day working a charity abseil from Carlisle’s 41 metre Civic Centre with well-known MIA David Hooper. (more…)