Petestack Blog

Tonight I did it. January Jigsaw with Henry. And the top part of Crowberry Ridge, the Tower and Stob Dearg again. And what a route it is… Agag’s more devious, but equally logical, twin.

So which is better? Can’t say, because they’re different, but does it matter? They’re both brilliant, quite sensational at their grades and the type of routes you should do again and again. And again! :-)

This morning I was back at the start of January Jigsaw with Isi Oakley. But everything was damp from persistent low cloud, the sun just wasn’t breaking through to dry it up and, after waiting three-quarters of an hour in vain for some sign of improvement, we headed off up the Buachaille via Curved Ridge and Crowberry Tower. It’s sunnier now, but Isi’s working later this afternoon and we had to be back. Oh well…

Three nights on the trot out this week, with not everything going quite to plan: (more…)

Today I was climbing on the East Face of Aonach Dubh with Jamie Bankhead, intent on a ‘smash and grab raid’ before a bright start turned to forecast rain. So perhaps you’ll not be surprised to hear that we did indeed get wet in the end, although just quite how wet was still a surprise to us… (more…)

Two contrasting evenings’ ‘climbing’ to report: (more…)

Another fine day with no partner arranged, so I took myself back to the Buachaille and up North Buttress (Mod), which I hadn’t done since soloing it together with Pete Harrop in 1991. With the same huge holds it’s always had and bone dry rock today, it was a joyous romp all the way to the summit, after which a jog down Coire na Tulaich left plenty of time for a late lunch at the Ice Factor (arriving exactly an hour after leaving the top of the Buachaille!) and a whisk round the garden with the mower.

Short of a climbing partner but keen to do something, I took the van to Glen Coe this afternoon and nearly took it straight home again as it started to spit with rain just as I got myself parked. But fortunately I decided that it was still worth a look and set off at a brisk pace for the East Face of Aonach Dubh, where in 1947 the great W.H.Murray had discovered ‘simple and modestly difficult routes [that] all men may climb.’ (more…)

While Wednesday evening looked perfect for Polldubh, it was set to be ruined by negligible breeze to keep the midges at bay. But we didn’t know that when we set out, so Daniel, Kenny Wright, Mark from Florida and I headed up to Secretaries’ Buttress with its open, sunny aspect and a bone dry Twitch (E1) featuring in my thoughts. (more…)

Today I passed my SPA (Single Pitch Award) Assessment at Glenmore Lodge after working at Cummingston (yesterday) and Kingussie (today) in glorious May sunshine that arrived just when most needed. Need to keep this short (and have to be careful about what I say here), but very, very happy to report that my assessor said some nice things at the closing interview and is strongly encouraging me in my ‘medium term’ goal of going for MIA (Mountaineering Instructor Award). :-)

PS Sorry (adding this half an hour later), but I really meant to say thanks to Ice Factor staff (especially Jamie B and Chuck), Al Halewood, David Hooper, Outward Bound Loch Eil and others for help and encouragement along the way.