Comments on: Yes, I have arthritic fingers! http://www.petestack.com/blog/climbing/yes-i-have-arthritic-fingers.html Sun, 22 Jan 2012 20:58:04 +0000 hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.3.1 By: admin http://www.petestack.com/blog/climbing/yes-i-have-arthritic-fingers.html/comment-page-1#comment-130 admin Fri, 25 Sep 2009 20:28:16 +0000 http://www.petestack.com/blog/?p=1048#comment-130 Hey, Andy, you must have started climbing about the time I was born! But your comments certainly strike a chord, because I've always enjoyed delicate, slabby climbing, can still wrap my whole hands round the steep, juggy, indoor 6a and 6a+s, but have been steadily coming to the conclusion that most of the more fingery 6bs just aren't good for me. Which is naturally frustrating when I'm sure I could climb them if they didn't hurt so much, but also gives me an excuse to stop looking like a plonker failing to stick the holds or rope-resting all the time. And, while I rarely climb such continuously steep ground outside (which is where it's really all at AFAIC), perhaps there are similar good reasons to keep cherry-picking the right HVS/E1s to lead and settling for seconding others without feeling too much of a wuss. Not quite the 'improvement' plan I had in mind, but needs must and, like you say, there's still plenty of good stuff to do! Hey, Andy, you must have started climbing about the time I was born! But your comments certainly strike a chord, because I’ve always enjoyed delicate, slabby climbing, can still wrap my whole hands round the steep, juggy, indoor 6a and 6a+s, but have been steadily coming to the conclusion that most of the more fingery 6bs just aren’t good for me. Which is naturally frustrating when I’m sure I could climb them if they didn’t hurt so much, but also gives me an excuse to stop looking like a plonker failing to stick the holds or rope-resting all the time. And, while I rarely climb such continuously steep ground outside (which is where it’s really all at AFAIC), perhaps there are similar good reasons to keep cherry-picking the right HVS/E1s to lead and settling for seconding others without feeling too much of a wuss. Not quite the ‘improvement’ plan I had in mind, but needs must and, like you say, there’s still plenty of good stuff to do!

]]> By: Andy Cole http://www.petestack.com/blog/climbing/yes-i-have-arthritic-fingers.html/comment-page-1#comment-128 Andy Cole Fri, 25 Sep 2009 09:18:17 +0000 http://www.petestack.com/blog/?p=1048#comment-128 Hi Peter, I've been climbing for about 45 years, have developing arthritis around the third joint of most fingers. My coping strategy now is (a)I limit the grade horizons a bit, you don't need strong fingers until well into most E2's (say F6b), below this good footwork and a bit of nouse will normally get you there, and this leaves me with more than enough climbs than I will ever complete in my lifetime, and (b)I try to climb regularly (wall in winter) at least every week or so, but without too much emphasis on fingery stuff, so that everything else you need to keep going gets the workout. Over the past couple of years I've found this better than the continuous pain/recovery cycle you go through if you try to work your fingers too hard. Best of luck, Andy Hi Peter, I’ve been climbing for about 45 years, have developing arthritis around the third joint of most fingers. My coping strategy now is (a)I limit the grade horizons a bit, you don’t need strong fingers until well into most E2′s (say F6b), below this good footwork and a bit of nouse will normally get you there, and this leaves me with more than enough climbs than I will ever complete in my lifetime, and (b)I try to climb regularly (wall in winter) at least every week or so, but without too much emphasis on fingery stuff, so that everything else you need to keep going gets the workout. Over the past couple of years I’ve found this better than the continuous pain/recovery cycle you go through if you try to work your fingers too hard. Best of luck, Andy

]]> By: Davie Hall http://www.petestack.com/blog/climbing/yes-i-have-arthritic-fingers.html/comment-page-1#comment-127 Davie Hall Thu, 24 Sep 2009 21:00:48 +0000 http://www.petestack.com/blog/?p=1048#comment-127 Sorry. It's the arnica gel I'm on about. Sorry. It’s the arnica gel I’m on about.

]]> By: Davie Hall http://www.petestack.com/blog/climbing/yes-i-have-arthritic-fingers.html/comment-page-1#comment-126 Davie Hall Thu, 24 Sep 2009 21:00:03 +0000 http://www.petestack.com/blog/?p=1048#comment-126 Peter, try this stuff. http://www.jandevrieshealth.co.uk/store_main.asp?int_catalog_id=1&int_category_id=0&int_subcategory_id=0&int_page=2&prod=30 Great for aches and pains. You have probably tried it, but if you haven't....... Davie Peter, try this stuff.

http://www.jandevrieshealth.co.uk/store_main.asp?int_catalog_id=1&int_category_id=0&int_subcategory_id=0&int_page=2&prod=30

Great for aches and pains. You have probably tried it, but if you haven’t…….

Davie

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